With carpet stains, speed matters more than the product. A fresh spill blotted right away usually comes out with water and a little dish soap. The biggest mistakes are rubbing, which spreads the stain and frays the fibers, and using too much liquid, which soaks the pad underneath.
Test any cleaner on a hidden spot first, such as inside a closet. Wool carpet needs extra care; avoid alkaline cleaners and check the manufacturer's guidance.
Blot, then use the dish soap method. If a brown mark remains, dab on a solution of 1 tablespoon white vinegar in 2 cups of warm water, then rinse and blot dry.
Blot immediately. Pour a little cold water on the spot and blot again, repeating several times. Then use the dish soap solution. For what's left on light-colored synthetic carpet, a little 3 percent hydrogen peroxide dabbed on can lift it, but test first, because it can lighten some carpets.
Blot as much as you can, pressing hard with paper towels, then use an enzyme cleaner made for pet urine and follow the label. Enzymes break down the compounds that cause the smell; regular cleaners can leave it behind and the pet may come back to the same spot. Avoid steam cleaning urine spots, since heat can set the odor. Our pet mess guide has more.
Sprinkle baking soda or cornstarch on the spot and leave it for 15 to 30 minutes to absorb the oil, then vacuum it up. Follow with the dish soap method.
Cold water only; warm water sets it. Blot with cold water, then the dish soap solution. On light synthetic carpet, test a little 3 percent hydrogen peroxide for any remaining mark.
Let it dry completely, then break it up and vacuum. Treating wet mud just smears it deeper. Clean any remaining mark with the dish soap method.
Hold an ice cube in a plastic bag against the gum until it's hard, then shatter it and pick out the pieces. A little rubbing alcohol on a cloth takes care of any residue.
Let it harden and scrape off what you can. Lay a brown paper bag over the remaining wax and press it with a warm iron (no steam) for a few seconds; the wax melts into the paper. Move to a clean part of the bag and repeat until no more wax lifts.
Old, set-in stains, large spills and urine that has reached the pad are worth a professional cleaning. Most carpets should be professionally cleaned every 12 to 18 months anyway; see our flooring guide.
Scrape up solids, blot until nothing transfers, then dab on a quarter teaspoon of clear dish soap in a cup of warm water, working from the outside in. Rinse by blotting with plain water and dry with weighted paper towels.
Blot immediately, add a little cold water and blot again several times, then use a mild dish soap solution. On light synthetic carpet, test a little 3 percent hydrogen peroxide for any remaining stain.
Blot up as much as possible and use an enzyme cleaner made for pet urine. Enzymes break down the compounds that cause the smell. Avoid steam cleaning, since heat can set the odor.
Let the wax harden and scrape off what you can, then lay a brown paper bag over it and press with a warm iron for a few seconds so the wax melts into the paper. Repeat with a clean section of the bag.
